This was a talk I gave recently at a community service in my local church. It is an attempt to explain the history of my village, Newport in Essex, in seven ages....
Age 1 Ice Age
Half a million years ago, the land that is now our village
was covered in ice. As the ice retreated and the land warmed up, river valleys
were formed, such as the one that Newport sits in today, the gentle valley of
the river Cam. We can still see evidence of the ice age in the large stones
that are sometimes found on the sides of roads in this area of north-west Essex
– they were the boulders left behind as the ice retreated.
Newport's 'Leper Stone'. So-called because lepers put money in the hollow, in return for food being left for them. |
Age 2 The earliest settlers
As the land warmed up, it was
settled. By the time the Romans came, the countryside was largely cleared of trees
and was being farmed. The 11th-century chapel
at Wicken Bonhunt is one of the oldest buildings not just in Essex but in the
whole of East Anglia.
Age 3 The making of Newport
Newport was a prosperous medieval market town. The name
Newport after all means ‘new market’, and there was a market here from at least
the 12th century. Farmers would come from miles around to trade
animals and produce, a practice that continued into the 18th
century. You might say, in fact, that we
are a village that was once a town.
The church we are in is a testament to the wealth of Newport
in medieval and Tudor times. Not too far away was St Leonard’s hospital, the
stones of which can still be seen in the wall by the roadside. Its care for the
sick and infirm gave the name to the leper stone that marks the spot where the
hospital once stood.
In 1587 a wealthy
London widow Joyce Frankland left a bequest in her will to build a school in
Newport. It formerly occupied a building on the site of what is now Church
House.
Age 4 Georgian Newport
It was only the granting of a licence for a market in nearby
Saffron Walden that led to Newport’s own prosperity being eclipsed. Since then
we have been too small to be called a town, but perhaps still too large and
important to be called a village.
Walk down our High Street today and you will see the
evidence of the prosperity of 18th-century Newport. Five or six
large houses dominate - these were originally the farms that employed the
majority of Newport’s inhabitants back in the 1700s.
At either end of the village were the mansions of the men
who actually owned the land – Shortgrove to the north, and Quendon to the
south.
For many years our village was known as Newport Pond,
because of its propensity to flood. Some things never change.
Age 5 Victorian Newport
Newport continued to enjoy prosperity into the Victorian
era. The coming of the railway in the 1840s was an important moment. The local
farmers relied upon the railway to transport their produce to London.
Age 6 20th-century
Newport
The roll call of names on the memorial stone in the
churchyard records the lives the village lost in the First (and then Second) World
Wars.
The soldiers who returned from the trenches one hundred
years ago marked the event by building a new social club in the village, which
sat alongside Newport’s six pubs (which had names like the Hercules, the Star
and the Three Tuns).
The men resumed lives as farmworkers, blacksmiths or
labourers, the women also as farmworkers or in domestic service. Newport
remained a predominantly agricultural village, weathering as best it could the
vicissitudes of farming life.
Within the space of half a century, all this had changed.
Most of Newport’s pubs had gone, leaving us with just two (the Coach and Horses
and the White Horse). The farms had gone too. In their place came hundreds of
new homes – such as the houses on Frambury Lane and Cherry Garden Lane.
Behind us, the M11 ploughed an expressway through the fields
– and the A11 was downgraded as the B1383.
Age 7 Today
Newport today is home to many people who would describe
themselves as commuters – just witness the number of people catching the 713 or
743 to Liverpool Street every morning. New houses are being built, and our
village may yet be transformed back into the town it arguably once was.
Yet we retain our charming rural setting, knowing that we
are just minutes away from being able to walk in beautiful open countryside.
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